🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.